Edinburgh
A city where stories are etched in stone, Edinburgh captivates with its dual personality: the medieval shadows of the Royal Mile and the Georgian grandeur of New Town. Castle-crowned crags rise above a maze of cobbled streets and hidden closes, while elegant gardens provide leafy respite from the bustle of Scotland's capital. Here, centuries of history blend seamlessly with a vibrant arts scene, where traditional pubs hum with folk music and festival crowds fill summer streets.
Auld Reekie (aka Old Smokey)
Edinburgh, Scotland's capital city, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its dramatic medieval Old Town and elegant Georgian New Town. Built around the iconic Edinburgh Castle perched on an extinct volcano, the city seamlessly blends ancient history with vibrant modern culture. Home to approximately 540,000 people, Edinburgh serves as Scotland's political, cultural, and educational hub while maintaining an intimate, walkable character that belies its status as a major European capital.
Edinburgh's history spans over 1,000 years, with the castle rock inhabited since the Bronze Age. The city became Scotland's capital in the 15th century and played a crucial role in the Scottish Enlightenment of the 18th century, earning it the nickname "Athens of the North." The Old Town's Royal Mile connects Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, while the New Town, built in the 18th and 19th centuries, showcases some of Europe's finest Georgian architecture. The city witnessed pivotal moments in Scottish history, from the signing of the National Covenant in 1638 to becoming home to the reconvened Scottish Parliament in 1999. Edinburgh is famous for hosting the world's largest arts festival each August and was designated the first UNESCO City of Literature.
Edinburgh experiences a temperate oceanic climate with mild summers and cool, wet winters. Summer temperatures typically range from 11-19°C (52-66°F), while winter temperatures hover around 2-7°C (36-45°F). The city can be visited year-round, though August brings the festivals and largest crowds, while spring and autumn offer pleasant weather with fewer tourists. Winter, despite shorter daylight hours, provides a magical atmosphere especially around Christmas and Hogmanay (New Year's Eve), when Edinburgh hosts one of the world's largest New Year celebrations.
Edinburgh is highly walkable, with most attractions within the compact city center easily accessible on foot. The city operates an extensive bus network with Lothian Buses covering all areas, plus a modern tram system connecting the airport to the city center and beyond to Newhaven. Many visitors enjoy exploring on foot, as the city's layout makes it easy to navigate between the Old Town, New Town, and neighborhoods like Leith. Taxis and ride-sharing services are readily available, though cycling can be challenging due to the city's hilly terrain. A day pass for public transport costs around £4.50 and covers buses and trams throughout the city.
Edinburgh Airport, located 8 miles west of the city center, offers direct flights from major UK cities and international destinations including Europe and North America. The airport connects to the city via the Airlink 100 bus (30 minutes) or tram (35 minutes). By train, Edinburgh Waverley Station sits in the heart of the city with regular services from London (4.5 hours), Glasgow (1 hour), and other UK cities. Driving from London takes approximately 8 hours via the A1 or M74/M8 motorways.
Neighborhood Guide
Exploring Edinburgh's neighborhoods is easily done on foot or by bus, with each district offering a unique experience within walking distance of the city center - from wandering the medieval closes of the Old Town to strolling through the Georgian elegance of the New Town's planned streets. Visitors can discover the bohemian charm of Stockbridge's independent shops, enjoy waterfront dining in the revitalized port of Leith, or explore the student atmosphere of areas like Marchmont and Bruntsfield, all connected by Edinburgh's excellent public transport system.
Edinburgh's Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site featuring medieval streets, the famous Royal Mile connecting Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Palace, and atmospheric closes and wynds dating back centuries. This historic heart of the city offers traditional Scottish pubs, street performers, and attractions like St. Giles' Cathedral and the Grassmarket, where visitors can experience over 1,000 years of Scottish history along cobblestone streets.
Edinburgh's New Town showcases the world's finest example of Georgian urban planning, with elegant sandstone buildings, wide streets, and beautiful squares like Charlotte Square laid out between 1767-1850. The area features sophisticated shopping on Princes Street and George Street, fine dining establishments, and cultural attractions, all designed with dramatic views of Edinburgh Castle and the Old Town.
The eastern end of the Royal Mile features the Palace of Holyroodhouse (the Queen's official Scottish residence), the modern Scottish Parliament building, and the ruins of historic Holyrood Abbey. Dominating the area is Arthur's Seat, an 823-foot extinct volcano offering Edinburgh's premier urban hiking experience with panoramic views across the city and surrounding countryside.
Edinburgh's West End combines village-like charm with urban sophistication, featuring the picturesque Dean Village tucked into the Water of Leith valley and the National Galleries of Scotland Modern Art museums. The area offers independent boutique shopping, fine dining, cultural venues like Usher Hall and the Royal Lyceum Theatre, plus hidden cocktail bars and a thriving farmers market.
South Edinburgh encompasses residential neighborhoods like Bruntsfield, Morningside, and Marchmont, characterized by beautiful Victorian sandstone tenements and strong student life due to proximity to Edinburgh University. The area centers around The Meadows park and Bruntsfield Links golf course, offering excellent independent shopping, diverse international dining, and the authentic neighborhood atmosphere where many locals choose to live.
Once an independent port town, Leith has transformed from its rough industrial past into one of the world's coolest neighborhoods, featuring three Michelin-starred restaurants and the Royal Yacht Britannia attraction. The historic Shore area along the waterfront combines converted warehouses with trendy bars, creative spaces, international cuisine, and a vibrant arts scene that maintains Leith's distinct maritime character and multicultural community.
Stockbridge retains the character of an independent village built around the Water of Leith, known for its bohemian atmosphere, independent shops, and the popular Sunday farmers market. This creative neighborhood features the distinctive Stockbridge Colonies housing, excellent restaurants like The Scran & Scallie, and easy access to the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh, making it a favorite area for Edinburgh's artistic community.
Things To Do And See
Edinburgh offers an extraordinary blend of medieval history and modern culture, where visitors can explore the iconic Royal Mile connecting Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Palace, climb the ancient volcano Arthur's Seat for panoramic views, and wander through UNESCO World Heritage sites spanning from cobblestone closes to elegant Georgian squares. The city's diverse neighborhoods each provide distinct experiences—from traditional Scottish pubs and whisky tastings in the Old Town to world-class museums, Michelin-starred restaurants in revitalized Leith, bohemian markets in Stockbridge, and year-round festivals that transform Edinburgh into a global cultural hub, especially during the famous August Festival Fringe.
Explore Old Town and the Royal Mile
Walk the historic cobbled street stretching one mile from Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Palace, exploring medieval closes like Real Mary King's Close and visiting St. Giles' Cathedral with its distinctive crown spire. This UNESCO World Heritage site features Europe's tallest historical tenements, traditional Scottish shops, and the distinctive "herringbone" pattern of wynds where Mary Queen of Scots once processed in 1561. We loved exploring the Royal Mile and learning all about it's history on our private walking tour with Local Eyes.
Explore Grassmarket and Victoria Street
Victoria Street's curved, colorful cobbled design reportedly inspired J.K. Rowling's Diagon Alley and houses independent boutiques, vintage stores, and traditional establishments. The historic Grassmarket Square below offers spectacular castle views, Saturday markets, diverse dining, and historic pubs including the White Hart Inn dating to 1516. Make sure to walk over to The Vennel Viewpoint for a nice shot of the castle.
This extinct volcano offers Edinburgh's most spectacular 360-degree panoramic views from its summit, featuring iconic monuments including the unfinished National Monument (Edinburgh's Parthenon replica), The Nelson Monument with its daily time ball drop, and the historic City Observatory complex now housing contemporary art exhibitions. Free to access at any time, this UNESCO World Heritage Site provides the perfect sunset viewpoint and hosts major events like the Beltane Fire Festival, making it both a peaceful escape and cultural hub just minutes from Princes Street.
Dean Village
This enchanting 12th-century milling hamlet tucked into a valley just five minutes from Princes Street showcases fairytale-like cobblestone streets, the iconic red sandstone Well Court with its clock tower and turrets, and remnants of 11 water mills that once ground grain for Edinburgh's bread supply for over 800 years. Part of Edinburgh's UNESCO World Heritage Site, the village offers picturesque walks along the Water of Leith with perfectly preserved architecture that makes it a photographer's paradise and filming location for period dramas.
Arthur’s Seat
Edinburgh's highest point at 251 meters, this ancient volcano offers a moderate 1-3 hour hike through diverse landscapes including three freshwater lochs, 14th-century St. Anthony's Chapel ruins, and dramatic Salisbury Crags before reaching the rocky summit with phenomenal 360-degree views spanning from Edinburgh Castle to the Scottish countryside. The extinct volcano, which erupted 350 million years ago and features recently discovered 3,000-year-old hill fort remains, provides multiple hiking routes suitable for reasonably fit visitors, though the final summit scramble requires good footwear and becomes extremely windy even on calm days.
Moray Place
Edinburgh's most exclusive Georgian address is a private residential 12-sided terrace built 1822-1858, featuring grand neoclassical four-story townhouses with ornate plasterwork and original Georgian windows. While the buildings and central gardens remain private to residents only, visitors can admire the exterior Craigleith sandstone architecture on walking tours of this historically significant New Town development.
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This historic village nestled at the base of Arthur's Seat features Scotland's oldest pub (Sheep Heid Inn, dating to 1360), the 12th-century Duddingston Kirk, and Dr Neil's Garden - sometimes called Scotland's secret garden. Visitors can enjoy peaceful walks around Duddingston Loch, which was the setting for the famous "Skating Minister" painting, while spotting swans, geese, and ducks in this tranquil bird sanctuary away from Edinburgh's busy center.
Where To Eat
Edinburgh's dining scene has evolved from traditional Scottish fare to become one of Europe's most exciting culinary destinations, featuring multiple Michelin-starred restaurants (particularly in Leith), award-winning gastropubs, and innovative establishments that blend Scottish ingredients with international techniques. The city offers everything from historic pubs serving haggis and whisky in the Old Town to cutting-edge fine dining in converted Georgian townhouses, plus vibrant food markets, diverse international cuisine reflecting its multicultural population, and renowned establishments that have put Edinburgh on the global gastronomic map.
Where To Drink
Edinburgh's drinking scene seamlessly blends historic Scottish pub culture with sophisticated cocktail bars, ranging from centuries-old taverns along the Royal Mile and in the atmospheric Grassmarket to upscale whisky bars on George Street that showcase Scotland's national spirit with extensive single malt collections. The city's nightlife comes alive particularly during festival season, with a vibrant mix of traditional folk music sessions in cozy pubs, trendy cocktail lounges, and late-night venues that cater to both locals and the large student population from the University of Edinburgh.
Where To Stay
Edinburgh offers diverse accommodation options from affordable hostels and traditional B&Bs in Georgian townhouses to luxury hotels in historic buildings like former churches and courthouses. The city's compact walkable layout makes neighborhoods like the medieval Old Town along the Royal Mile ideal for first-time visitors seeking atmosphere, while New Town provides elegant Georgian hotels with more space, and areas like Stockbridge and Leith offer quieter local experiences with excellent transport links.
